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Nagoya obi

Kanji, Kana & Pronunciation
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Romaji Nagoya Obi
Kanji 名古屋帯
Kana
Audio Coming Soon
(n) Folded and partially sewn obi.


Nagoya obi is the most widely used obi today along with hanhaba obi, thanks to its ease of wearing in the ubiquitous taiko musubi. Its close relative is the kyobukuro obi.

Characteristics

It is characterised by the difference of width in the tesaki (body wrap) and taresaki (tail part): the tesaki is sewn folded into half width and the taresaki is full-width. Most nagoya obi are rather short and can only be tied in the taiko style and some of its very simple relatives such as the ginza musubi. The kyobukuro obi resembles the nagoya obi closely, but its tesaki is not sewn folded.

Many nagoya obi only have motifs on the taresaki which will be visible in the back, and on the part of the tesaki which will be visible in the front. This limits the wearability of the obi to only properly constructed taiko musubi. However fully patterned nagoya obi also exist.

The half-width tesaki makes wearing it easier but removes the option of adjusting the tesaki width in accordance to a taller or wider wearer. For such wearers a kyobukuro obi modified to have wider tesaki, or a fukuro obi, might be better suited.

Nagoya Obi Examples


Formality & TPO

The nagoya obi ranges in formality from truly casual to formal. A general rule of thumb is: if it can be tied in nijuudaiko musubi (double-layer taiko), it is formal and can be worn to formal events as long as its style and level are appropriate (gold or silver, auspicious motif). Shorter nagoya obi are unsuitable for formal events where simple-layer taiko musubi would not be formal enough, and the formality level of such pieces depends on the material and motifs much like a kimono's.

In the most conservative view, even nijuudaiko-capable nagoya obi with gold and auspicious motifs are unsuitable to the highest level of formality, i.e. weddings and graduations.

Casual nagoya obi (shorter, ordinary material and motifs)

TPO - Within Japan

Occasion Acceptable
Hotel Wedding Reception no
Restaurant Wedding Reception no
Formal Party no
Casual Party maybe
Dinner yes
Lunch yes
Tea Gathering maybe
Graduation Ceremony no
Practice yes
Theatre, Concert maybe
Exhibition maybe
Travel yes
Yes - Acceptable to wear.
OK - OK to wear if no suitable alternatives.
No - Unacceptable to wear.


Semiformal nagoya obi (shorter, fine with auspicious materials, perhaps gold or silver)

TPO - Within Japan

Occasion Acceptable
Hotel Wedding Reception no
Restaurant Wedding Reception no
Formal Party maybe
Casual Party yes
Dinner yes
Lunch maybe
Tea Gathering maybe
Graduation Ceremony no
Practice maybe
Theatre, Concert maybe
Exhibition maybe
Travel no
Yes - Acceptable to wear.
OK - OK to wear if no suitable alternatives.
No - Unacceptable to wear.


Formal nagoya obi (longer, fine with auspicious materials and gold or silver)

TPO - Within Japan

Occasion Acceptable
Hotel Wedding Reception yes
Restaurant Wedding Reception yes
Formal Party yes
Casual Party no
Dinner no
Lunch no
Tea Gathering no
Graduation Ceremony yes
Practice no
Theatre, Concert maybe
Exhibition maybe
Travel no
Yes - Acceptable to wear.
OK - OK to wear if no suitable alternatives.
No - Unacceptable to wear.


Kimono combinations

Nagoya obi can never be worn with a yukata or a furisode. For other types of kimono, compatibility depends on the rank of the obi since the Nagoya is very versatile.

Casual
Kimono Type Acceptable
Furisode no
Tomesode (Kuro & Iro) no
Iromuji no
Houmongi no
Tsukesage maybe
Komon yes
Yukata no
This is a general recomendation and may vary according to individual situations.
Semiformal
Kimono Type Acceptable
Furisode no
Tomesode (Kuro & Iro) no
Iromuji no
Houmongi maybe
Tsukesage yes
Komon maybe
Yukata no
This is a general recomendation and may vary according to individual situations.

Compatible with higher rank komon only, such as eba komon or edo komon.

Formal
Kimono Type Acceptable
Furisode no
Tomesode (Kuro & Iro) yes
Iromuji yes
Houmongi yes
Tsukesage maybe
Komon maybe
Yukata no
This is a general recomendation and may vary according to individual situations.


Compatible with higher rank komon only, such as fine eba komon or edo komon.

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References


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