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Yoshiwara: The Glittering World of the Japanese Courtesan
by Cecilia Segawa Seigle


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Miyako Odori, 1937

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The following is a direct except from the English language section from the Miyako Odori programme of 1937, from the private collection of Naomi Graham-Diaz, ImmortalGeisha.com. This has been copy-typed verbatim, along with scans, from the original programme by Naomi Graham-Diaz.

An Outline of the Miyako Odori or Cherry Dance

It goes without saying that, in our classical capital of over a thousand years, the veritable queen of the spring attractions, natural as well as artificial, is no doubt the Miyako Odori or Cherry Dance reputably know not only at home but throughout the world. Soaring amidst the various floral shows of the season, it is fascinatingly admired as the most beautiful sight of this fairyland. No wonder that it yearly attracts countless numbers of visitors, regardless of sex, age and classes, from all parts of the Empire.

The Miyako Odori was originally promoted and consummated by Madam Haruko Inouye, a veteran dancing teacher, and Mr. Jiroemon Sugiura, the renowned proprietor of the most famous tea-house in the country. Thanks to the valuable guidance of the then Governor of Kyoto, Mr. Hase and Councillor Makimura, it was successfully started in March, 1872, the very year Japan saw her first and foremost exposition. Ever since, this popular dance has made a marked progress as seen as present.

The pretty staff of the Miyako Odori consists of 28 dancers, 1 star-singer, 12 singers, 5 tsuzumi (hand-drum_ players, 5 taiko (small-drum) and kane (bell) players, 1 o-daiko (bigger drum) player and 1 fue (flute) player, forming a company of 52 in all. There are four companies with a total of 208 girls, who change their turn every four days during the period of performance. These girls are all the select geishas of Gion, the most fashionable red-light quarter dating back to 1790.

It is earnestly hoped that those who want to appreciate a typical dance of this country, simultaneously studying the life of our old Imperial seat, should not fail to pay a visit to the Cherry Dance, a mighty pride of Kyoto. All are cordially welcome.

Miyako Odori or Cherry Dance
For 1937
Furyu O-Kuni Kabuki (O-Kuni’s Elegant Play)

The Cherry Dance for the current year is designed in allusion to the life of the famous O-Kuni of Izumo Province, who is highly respected as the ancestress of Kabuki or the theatrical performance of the old school. Her merit towards its development is certainly invaluable and is being felt much thankful.

O-Kuni was a lovely daughter of a blacksmith in the town of Kitsuki and became a sacred dancer of the Grand Shinto Shrine of Izumo. It was in the Eiroku era (1558-69) that she came up to Kyoto where she happened to meet and marry a handsome-looking Samurai, Nagoya-Sanzaburo by name. Then he used to compose many a song for her and acted as her partner on the stage, which paved the way for the appearance of the grand Kabuki theatre as seen at the present day.



Scene I. “Grand Shrine of Izumo”



It has been a long established custom to furnish the first scene with the plain silver-foiled sliding-screens on the upper part of which is painted a fine bamboo-shade in a row. But, the screens for the present year are decorated with a beautiful scene of the Grand Shrine of Izumo in memory of the actress O-Kuni who was once one of its sacred dancers. Also, she was born in the town where this celebrated shrine is located.

The Grand Shinto Shrine of Izumo, popularly known as the taisha, lies on the coast of the Sea of Japan, being dedicated to the Terrestrial God Okuni-nushi-no-Mikoto. It was he who surrendered the whole earthly region to the God Ninigi-no-Mikoto, grandson of Amaterasu-Omikami (Sun-goddess), who descended up on Earth from Heaven in obedience to the august command of his divine grandmother.

The style of the Grand Shrine of Izumo is the oldest in existence and is regarded as a precious model representing the mythological architecture. Ever since its foundation in the Age of the Gods it has stood on the present spot, having been renewed every sixty years, yet retaining all its original forms except a few minor points. It is indeed a great sight not only for architects but for sight-seekers.



Scene II. “Lovely Plum Blossoms at Kitano”



The stage before us represents the hallowed precincts of the Kitano-Tenmangu Shrine and a part of its ancient Ukon (Right Guard) riding-course in an early spring when plum-trees were in full blossoms. The reason why such a scene is brought out here owes to the fact that O-Kuni had a temporary theatre built in 1604 in the Ukon riding-course and displayed an attractive dance called “Kabuki-Odori.” It was on this occasion that she won a loud applause from a vast crowd swarming the theatre from all different directions with great joy and excitement.

The Kitano Temmangu Shrine is a very famous Shinto shrine on the north-western side of Kyoto, being dedicated to Sugawara-no-Michizane (844-903). It was founded in 947 while the present structure, which is one of the most beautiful, dates to 1607. Michizane was the Minister-of-the-Right (Udaijin) and the greatest statesman in his days. His matchless ability was made an object of envy by his rival minister Fujiwara-no-Tokihira. As its result, he was exiled in 901 on a false charge to the Kyushu Island where he died two years later in a lonely hut. He had to pass disagreeable days in absolute seclusion, having been separated from all his family. He is now worshipped as the God of Literature and Calligraphy. Tall trees catch much wind and high regions are never without storms.



Scene III. “Dance on the Dry River-Bed of Shijo”



This is one of the two special interludes staged between the regular Cherry Dance and its expected to afford a keen delight to the spectator. Now, the stage is meant to represent the dry river-bed of Shijo in the River Kamo in summer as it appeared in the closing part of the 16th century. The well-known stream of Kamo runs through the heart of Kyoto City, adding much to its scenic beauty. It has been sung in poetry in countless numbers while it is rich in historical associations. As a mater of fact, it was on the dry bed of this river that O-Kuni made her theatrical debut when all eyes were focused upon her and gained an enviable reputation in those days.



At that time, O-Kuni, the pioneer of the Kabuki theatre, had in her troupe a number of nice-looking girls who were trained in dancing. These girls are thought to have danced the so-called “Yayako Dance” and the “Oharagi Dance”, being attired in attractive costumes. The present interlude is based upon these dances of ancient origin and is played by ten pretty girls who carry on their respective heads a faggot tied up with a crimson rope and decorated with flowers. Each fair dancer holds a fan in her pliant hand and dancers as merrily as a butterfly, revealing a picturesque sight characteristic of the Land of the Rising Sun.



Scene IV. “Maple Tints on Mount Hiyei”



Perhaps no nation would find so much delight in autumnal tints as the Japanese who admire them just as keenly as cherry-blossoms. They are born a poetical people, so that even a simple crimson leaf makes them express their feeling, either joyfully or sadly as occasion requires.

Here is shown a glorious view of autumnal colors displayed around the grand Enryakuji Temple that stands imposingly on the summit of Mount Hiyei soaring in the north-east of Kyoto. The Enryakuji is the headquarters of the Tendai sect of Buddhism and it was founded in 788 by the priest Saicho, posthumously called Denkyo-Daishi, one of the most distinguished personages this country had ever produced.

Although the present scene has nothing to do with O-Kuni, it is specially staged here in view of the fact that there is going on, this spring, an extrodinary Buddhist service in the Enryakuji in commemoration of the 1150th centenary of the foundation of the Tendai sect. To tell the truth, there are not seen many maple-trees close by the Enryakuji Temple, but they are growing in abundance in its northern valley which is regarded as a noted spot for beautiful autumn-leaves. These gorgeous colors have been applied for the stage before us so as to make it look wonderful.



Scene V. “Kabuki Play in Fushimi Castle”



The most magnificent scene in the Cherry Dance for the year 1937 is undoubtedly the present interlude showing the gorgeous parlor of the far-famed Fushimi Castle built under the command of the unexampled hero, Taiko-Hideyoshi (1535-98), who once took the helm of state affairs. It is said, the matchless splendor of this castle was utterly beyond description. Here the fair O-Kuni of high repute repeated had the honor of displaying her theatrical skill soon after she was called up to an Imperial consort’s Palace, that is to say, on May 6, 1603. The Daimyo Yuki Hideyasu praised O-Kuni up to the sky, declaring that she was the greatest woman in the whole word while he regretted he was not the greatest man on earth.



There appears on the stage a dancer who plays the leading part, looking as elegant as she could be. She is meant to represent O-Kuni and dances in company with two comedians, large and small. And she is clad in a female costume, yet she dances in the style of the Otako-mai (male dance), wearing a tall golden hat and a long sword. All of them dance in a group to a sweet tune of the Samisen, singing several melodious ditties simply fascinating to listen, The orchestra in this scene is expressly seated on the main stage, making a rare example for the Cherry Dance.






Scene VI. “A Portrait of Yedo”




The above poetic title signifies a scene of the ancient city of Yedo or present Tokyo how it appeared towards the Keicho era (1596-1614). Our favorite actress O-Kuni came up to Yedo in 1607 when Yedo was beginning to thrive and held a theatrical performance in the neighborhood of the historic Yedo Castle of nation-wide reputation. On that occasion an immense crowd of Yedo people visited her perfect play executed with exquisite skill, for which they felt deeply impressed and admired her in the extreme. She was then in her palmist days, enjoying an unrivalled popularity from the general public. Hence the presentation of the present scene.

Notice on the background Mount Fuji, Japan’s holiest mountain, towering to the left side of the Yedo Castle. It eloquently tells us how sparsely Yedo City was inhabited, from which even the slightest shadow of Tokyo can be obtained. Indeed, it is totally different from the Imperial capital as it stands today.

The Yedo Castle was founded in 1457 by Ota-Dokwan, a local feudal lord, and it later passed into the hands of the Tokugawa family in 1590. Since then, it had been the Tokugawa Shogun’s seat of rule until the restoration of administrative power to the Throne in 1869. It is now the Imperial residence, having been thoroughly rebuilt on a grand scale.



Scene VII. “Snow Round Renka-an Retreat”



As the title says, the stage represents a snowy scene of the Renka-an Retreat that once stood in the town of Taisha, Izumo Province. It was here that the once-prosperous actress O-Kuni retired in order to spend her westering days. Life is subject to decay and it is as frail as a morning dewdrop. A beautiful flower of yesterday is a dream of today. Death spares neither pope nor beggar. Such is the way of the world.

O-Kuni fell sick one day, which eventually compelled her to return to her native province where she had a little cottage built near the Yomeiji, a Buddhist temple. There she was absorbed in offering prayers to the Buddha. She is said to have lived as old as 87 years, but somewhat doubtful. This retreat used to be also called the O-Kuni Temple, but it does not exist now. At the present day, there stands a tiny temple that was put up last April in memory of O-Kuni.

This scene is principally intended to display the combined skill of the musicians and singers taking part in it. One or two singers sing with such a charming voice that it defies description. The whole house is lost in admiration and listens to the melody with rapt attention. Accordingly, the dancers enter after much snow has fallen on the stage.



Scene VIII. “Cherry Blossom on Honoyama Hill”



Who can deny that Miyako Odori or the Cherry Dance of Kyoto, which is the fountain-head of all similar dances, is decidedly the greatest attraction in the much-talked-of spring of Japan? It s by no means an exaggeration to say that to miss it means to miss one of her most important sights.

After having heartily enjoyed the preceding senses of absorbing interest, we are now going to enjoy the final scene of vernal gaiety that reveals a joyful sight of cherry blossoms in all its glory. Its charmingly displayed round a pagoda erected in honor of O-Kuni on the Honoyama Hill in Taisha-machi, a holy town in the province of Izumo. In point of fact, this spot does not seem directly related to O-Kuni. But, it is made the background of the present scene owing to a stone monument near the Renka-an and a fine view obtained from the hill.

In conclusion, the whole staff of fair dances express their profound gratitude to the visitors from distant lands and drink cups after cups brimful of Sake or rice-wine for their health, saying “Adieu.”

Banzai! Banzai! Banzai!

<< Return to Kyoto Odori Menu

The text above is a direct except from the English language section from the Miyako Odori programme of 1937, from the private collection of Naomi Graham-Diaz, ImmortalGeisha.com. This has been copy-typed verbatim, along with scans, from the original programme by Naomi Graham-Diaz.