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 Post subject: Have you ever heard of beadwork?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 2:37 am 
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Geiko-san
Geiko-san

Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:11 pm
Posts: 2316
OK, this one is really out of left field. We have someone posting to one of the SCA lists who wants to do bead embroidery on a kosode.

I have pointed her at the Kyoto Costume Museum and told her that I have no evidence that beading was done on anything prior to the Edo period. I did find a site that indicates it became popular during the Meiji period. Accessories I can see. Yofuku I can see easily.

Has anyone ever seen beadwork done on a kimono, or obi for that matter?


Last edited by kugepoet on Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Have you ever heard of beadwork?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 3:16 am 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

Joined: Sun Apr 02, 2006 10:39 pm
Posts: 863
Fav. Motif: Tanuki, fukiyose, take-suzume
kugepoet wrote:
Has anyone ever seen beadwork done on a kimono, or obi for that matter?


I own an early- to mid-Showa kurotomesode that has a small amount of beadwork - although possibly not the kind you're thinking of. The technique is mainly yuzen and embroidery, but the kimono also includes a few areas with inlaid mother-of-pearl and subtle beadwork done with a smattering of tiny, clear green beads (probably glass) of peridot and teal. The beads are used almost exclusively on the "rocks" in the design, and it gives a lovely textural feeling to them.

Here are links to photos of the tomesode itself, plus a mid-closeup of the nami-chidori (wave and plovers) design:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h233/chamekke/kimono/ee23e4ae.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h233/chamekke/kimono/c373a366.jpg

Now, here are three or four of the areas with beading. It's not clear from the photo (last one), but one of the plovers even has its eye marked with a single peridot-coloured bead:

Image Image
Image Image

I don't think I'd care for extensive beadwork, but I quite like this.

The closest thing I've seen to conventional beadwork on a kimono was a late 20th-century uchikake covered in sequins, but that's another animal entirely <shudder>.

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Last edited by chamekke on Sat Apr 08, 2006 6:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 4:42 am 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 5:29 am
Posts: 1296
Location: PITTSBURGH!
Chamekke--my goodness, that's a beautiful tomesode! I gasped when I saw the pics you included.

Sorry for the out of topic post, Kugepoet...but I know nothing :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:52 am 
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Geiko-san
Geiko-san

Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:11 pm
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Domo arigato, Chamekke-san. I'm going to shoot our inquiring party a link to this thread so she can check out your very interesting and unusual example - and any others, if anyone else has any information.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 6:09 am 
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Maiko-san
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kugepoet wrote:
Domo arigato, Chamekke-san. I'm going to shoot our inquiring party a link to this thread so she can check out your very interesting and unusual example - and any others, if anyone else has any information.


I wonder if this kind of unobtrusive beadwork may have been more widely used at one time than we now realize. It would be helpful to know the exact age of this piece - but truth is, I don't really know. (Even "mid-Showa" covers a lot of ground.)

The original Ichiroya listing said: "This piece has unique wave and gull [sic - I think it's plovers] motif, which is dyed with yuzen technique. In many parts intricately embroidery are added. And some parts are added design in mother-of-pearl inlay." Â

You see, there's no mention whatsoever of the beadwork! Â The beads were only apparent in some of the detail photos - and of course, on the tomesode itself when it arrived in the post.

So maybe we should looking at vintage kimono more closely in general, especially when intricately embroidered :)

P.S.  I wonder whether one benefit of those tiny beads was that they conceal the stitching surrounding those mother-of-pearl pieces?  And then the beads may have been used elsewhere on the kimono to obscure their initially utilitarian purpose. Probably not... but it's a thought.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 11:49 pm 
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Maiko-san
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 4:36 pm
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
Fav. Motif: momiji
Beautiful!! I've never seen beadwork on a kimono before, and I'm so glad I have now!!!  :lovelove  :lovelove  :lovelove

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:24 am 
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Geiko-san
Geiko-san

Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:50 am
Posts: 1970
I've seen beads and austrian crystals on uchikake before, and sequins and beads on an obi. It seems unlikely that threre would have been beaded kosode in period... beadwork seems to have been something that Japan borrowed from the west during the Meiji era.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:40 am 
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Geiko-san
Geiko-san

Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:11 pm
Posts: 2316
Yes, the Meiji connection seems to be as far as I've been able to take it. I got a nice note from the young lady earlier today and recommended some books for her to check out. Seems she was hoping to link an existing hobby with her persona portrayal. Sometimes it works, sometimes, it doesn't.

Thanks again for your input!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:13 am 
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Shikomi-san
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Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2006 11:19 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Austin, Texas
the few snippets I can recall are all post Portugul showing up and being a poor guest.  One being a case of one ups manship between two women (and this is a six year old recollection so some details are flat gone.  Like the critical one of which blasted book I read it in. :oops:   I just know it was a passage I read in passing for a research paper on Japanese dyeworks)  the one who "won" had a black robe with a bush enbriodered in gold thread with coral beads as berries (shrub is a symbol for wifely fidelity as the bush keeps it's berries after the leaves drop after the first frost)  it ws an odd passage which is why I remember all that I do.

but it's well after the 1600 cut off point.

Mieka


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