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 Post subject: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:36 pm 
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Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 05 Jan 2006
Posts: 317
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Below is a photo list of the items that one needs to wear a complete yukata or kimono outfit. Where possible both the common English keyword and any Japanese terms associated with the item have been provided.
This is a list of the ideal Japanese items for kitsuke (kimono dressing). Feel free to discuss alternatives or ask questions about what is and is not option, among any other questions you have.

This list is not intended to discuss in detail the use of each item. For that, please see How To Put Kimono On and Obi Musubi (Knots) -- Various Instructions and Links.

Most of these pictures are used with the kind permission of Ichiro and Yuka of the fabulous Ichiroya.com, which is an excellent resource for kimono goods of all kinds, including all the items listed here. Any other photo sources will be noted.

Kitsuke Accessories List

Yukata


1. Underwear / Hadajuban: This is the innermost layer. It's generally made of cotton and comes in either a one-piece or a two-piece. Usually these have self-ties, but sometimes you need a himo to tie them shut.
ImageImage
(Both photos from Gai-jin Kekkonshiki.org)

2. Ties / Koshihimo: Sometimes referred to only as himo. Professionally made ones are marked by pointed ends with small tassels at the tips.
Image

3. Korin Belt: An elastic belt with a clip on either end.
Image
(Photo from Hana-Machi.com. Thank you mojuko!)

4. Obi Board / Obi Ita: Obi ita can be made of various materials. They're used to stiffen the front of the obi. Some have elastic bands on the edges so you can secure them around you.
ImageImage
(Elastic band obi ita photo from Hana-Machi.com. Thank you mojuko!)

5. Yukata: A yukata is an unlined, cotton kimono worn in the summer.
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6. Obi: Most often hanhaba (half-width) or heko (soft) obi are worn with yukata.
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This is a fairly common style of yukata obi -- synthetic, reversible, and hitoe (unlined).
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This is a soft heko obi. Originally this style was only worn by men and children, but it's started to be popular for women, too.

7. Geta: These are Japanese style thong sandals with soles made of wood.
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Absolutely mandatory items to wear yukata: 2 himo or 1 himo and 1 korin belt, yukata, obi, geta.

Kimono

1. Hadajuban as shown above.

2. Koshihimo: Silk or polyester koshihimo, as shown below, are preferable for use in obi musubi (knots).
Image

3. Nagajuban, or Han Juban and Susoyoke: Juban are the second layer. They can be made from cotton, silk, wool, polyester, or blends. You can tell them apart from kimono because they will have a contrasting collar and unshaped sleeves. Nagajuban are one-piece juban. A han juban is the top of a two-piece juban set, and the susoyoke is the skirt.
Image
Image
(Latter photo from Gai-jin Kekkonshiki.org)

4. Juban Collar / Han eri: Some juban come with a white or decorated collar already sewn on. In other cases, you may need to sew one on yourself.
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This shows a highly decorated colored han eri. The more common type of han eri is plain white. The two juban shown above have white han eri already attached to the collar.

5. Eri shin: This slim piece of plastic stiffens the juban collar.
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6. Datejime: This is a wider band that is used to smooth out the juban and kimono. Datejime come in many types, from the very traditional striped silk sash to modern varieties using velcro.
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Image

7. Korin Belt as shown above.

8. Kimono:
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This kimono is the most casual type, called a komon. It features a repeated all-over pattern.

9: Obi: The type of obi you wear will depend on the type of kimono you have. There are many threads in the Knowledge Bank that can help you identify your kimono type and what obi you should pair with it.
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This is called a nagoya obi. It's typified by one narrow end and one wide end.

10. Obi Ita as shown above.

11. Obi Pillow or Bustle / Obi Makura: This is a form used to support the obi knot. It comes in various shapes dependent on the type of musubi tied. Shown is the most common type used to support an otaiko (drum) knot.
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12. Kimono clips: These are clips with soft "jaws" used in various stages of kimono dressing and obi tying to keep fabric in place.
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(This was the only picture I could find. I totally stole it from this place, which may be a shop. If anyone has any pictures of clips that I don't have to steal, please let me know!

13. Obiage: This is a soft sash used to cover the obi makura in the back. It ties over the top of the obi and usually shows in the front.
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14. Obi Cord / Obijime: This cord, often made of silk and tasseled on each end, is used to secure the obi musubi. It wraps around to the front of the obi waistband and ties there.
Image

15. Tabi: Split toed socks, often in cotton or a polyester blend.
Image

16. Zori: More formal than geta, these are thong sandals usually made of leather or vinyl.
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Absolutely mandatory items to wear a kimono: 3 himo or 2 himo and a korin belt, juban with a nice han eri, eri shin, kimono, obi, obi makura, obiage, obijime, tabi, zori.


Other Accessories

Here are a few other kimono accessories that you may want to know about starting out.

1. Juban substitutes: It's possible to do without a proper juban -- the important factors are the collar, which will show at the throat and form the structure that will support the collars of your kimono, and the sleeve edges, which will show through the openings of the kimono sleeves, and, of course, protecting the kimono from body oil, sweat, perfume, make-up, etc. You can protect the kimono by wearing hadajuban or a full slip and a camisole. You can fake juban sleeves by making fake sleeves and sewing them onto your hadajuban or into your kimono sleeves.
You can use what's called an Easy Collar / Kantan Eri / Tsuke Eri for the collar.
Image

2. Pre-tied obi / Tsuke Obi / Tsukuri Obi: This is a type of obi that generally consists of an already formed obi musubi and a waistband to which it attaches. Most often you find this style for the bunko musubi, which is most often used for yukata, or the otaiko musubi, which is most often worn by married women.
Image

3. Kimono coats: There are several common "shapes" of kimono coat. The most common are Haori, which have flat lapels that span the length of the coat. Haori close with two string ties, similar to obijime, that are referred to as "himo" as well. Their formality depends on the fabrics used. Because haori are the most formal style of kimono coats, they may be worn indoors as well as out.
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Another style with a squared off collar is called a michiyuki. This style is most often used for rain coats / ama coat, so if you're purchasing one, check to see if it's synthetic or if it's been waterproofed. Not all michiyuki are rain coats. The lengths of michiyuki may vary greatly. They are usually closed with snaps or buttons. You must remove michiyuki before going inside.
Image
A third common style is called a douchugi. It is a wrap-around coat. It usually closes with string ties or fabric ties.
Image



Another quick note: Those looking to put together their kitsuke sets may want to consider these resources as well:

Kimono De Cheap, a great website for learning to make your own komono. Check this out especially if you don't have a juban yet -- there's detailed information about faking up juban.

Make a juban, a tutorial in Japanese by Japanese Style Kintoto. Her whole website is worth a look if you like to sew.

Most bizarre household objects you've ever used in kitsuke?

If anyone knows of any other good links, please do post them!
Again, thank you Ichiro and Yuka for the pictures!

[This post was originally composed by Mizuhana, but due to link breakage and the desire for additions I've decided to revamp it. Because of this, I have gone through the post and deleted any responses that refer to pictures that no longer exist, assuming no pertinent question was asked. --bebemochi]

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Last edited by Mizuhana on Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:59 pm 
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Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 19 Jan 2006
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arg dont remind me of how much i need! two kimono, a yukata, and an obi on the way has cost me enough money! :cry:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:48 am 
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Geiko-san
Geiko-san

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And you WONDER why I do pre-Edo dress!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 5:44 pm 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

Joined: 02 Jan 2006
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What does the Date Jiime do?  :?

I have everything there except for the kimono underwear and the purse...
I figured I could slip by without those... :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:22 pm 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

Joined: 03 May 2004
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GeikoSera, kyotocollection on Ebay has a great datejime for sale in his store: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Hakata-Silk-DAT ... dZViewItem

For $19 and $2 for shipping, I'd say that isn't pricey at all! And I think the Hakata-ori is gorgeous, almost too lovely to cover up :)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:03 am 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

Joined: 02 Jan 2006
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Rogue Angel wrote:
GeikoSera, kyotocollection on Ebay has a great datejime for sale in his store: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Hakata-Silk-DAT ... dZViewItem

For $19 and $2 for shipping, I'd say that isn't pricey at all! And I think the Hakata-ori is gorgeous, almost too lovely to cover up :)


Thankyou so much for the link!!  :lovelove

Seeing it out of the package really helpes...I know exactly what it is now. I don't have one, too bad I don't have the money to buy one!  :cry:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:05 am 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
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Mizuhana thanks for posting this list!!!!!

Though it is a bit intimidating... anyone know what the minimum items are?
I mean I figure if you have the juban you can skip the underwear, and the colar maybe as well if there is one attached to the juban, as well as the datejime... but I'm new at this so could be way off.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:42 pm 
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Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 05 Jan 2006
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Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Honestly, I thimk you can replace the Kimono underwear with a v-neck t-shirt and a half-slip or something. These are things you can easily find at your local K-mart! Same for zori - a stray finish flip flop can do ok. And if your kimono is a Yukata, you don't need stuff like the obi makura.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 3:13 pm 
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Shikomi-san
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as far as i can tell, not much is really 'needed' for yukata. I just got my first yukata in the mail, and i plan on wearing it this summer. But i have seen pictures of what is being called yukata with full obi etc.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 4:02 pm 
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Dingo ate my Baby! (admin)
Dingo ate my Baby! (admin)

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Well said.

The difference between geta and zori.
Geta are made of wood, usually pawlonia(sp?) They are different in size and shape but generally come down onto two "teeth". Geta are worn without tabi when with a yukata. I think they are worn without tabi most of the time with the exception of the geiko and maiko.

Zori are made of woven mat or leather and are more formal for regular kimono wearing (geiko and maiko have a different story) They are always worn with tabi.

For both there are differences between mens and womens. womens are narrower and often prettier. Mens are much wider and often longer. Many american women wear mens due to the difference in size of our feet, but it is important to understand the expected fit of both styles. We tend to want our geta and zori to fit like regular shoes, but that makes them look silly and large to a japanese eye. Traditionally they are worn so that you cannot feel the back but so that they are as small as possible.

Image

Browse thru the website http://www.karankoron.com/online_shop_geta.html They have tons of information and carry a version of pokkuri as well as larger ladies geta.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 4:25 pm 
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Dingo ate my Baby! (admin)
Dingo ate my Baby! (admin)

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I think traditionally geta are worn with yukata, but I dont think anyone would actually notice. With daily wear kimono other than yukata zori are worn, I will have to try to check on the lack of tabi, again I dont know if anyone not japanese would care.

I actually made my tabi, some out of socks that didn't hac that anoying over the toe seam and some from scratch. They are not very hard from socks, you just create a stick line between the big and other toes and return out making a very narrow v and cut. Make sure you turn the wrong sid out first so when you turn them back they are nice and finished looking. It may take a pair or two before you get it right, but it is an easy solution.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 4:39 pm 
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Dingo ate my Baby! (admin)
Dingo ate my Baby! (admin)

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The only socks that I found that did not have the seam over the toe were trouser socks, these tend to be very strechy so I didn't have a problem. Mt feet are about a US 8.5 or a UK 6.5

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Observe the standards and rules to the limit, and though you may break them or depart from them, never forget the principles
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:16 am 
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Shikomi-san
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Joined: 13 Jan 2006
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Yipes. It's scary how much more I still need if I'm going to wear a kimono properly. The underwear, the juban, the koshihimo and date jime, not to mention tabi and footwear. Where's my disposable income when I need it?  :cry: Well, I shall keep going. My goal is to have a whole outfit and to wear my kimono to class at least one day before graduation. Maybe for finals? Hmm...that'd be fun.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:06 pm 
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Maiko-san
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A little note on tabi.  I modified some socks like mojuko suggested once and they worked fine, but then I realized that I just wear regular socks with my flip-flops all the time when I go to the bathroom. They steetch out fine and are actually more comfortable because they don't have that seam between the toes, although that is probably more of  poor reflection on my sewing than any thing else.  But with regular socks, you don't get that snazzy split-toe after you tke your shoes off.  :(

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:35 am 
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Maiko-san
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Kimono wearing accessories can get expensive! During the new years sales I picked up everything except Tabi for 4000-yen, which was at about a 70% discount! I'd reccomend not paying more than $10 per piece if you can... there seems to be a huge mark-up on everything at normal stores.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:09 am 
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First Mate Onesan (moderator)
First Mate Onesan (moderator)

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It's currently acceptable to wear any type of sandal with yukata. Or seems that way, especially if you're a bit younger. Wear whatever is comfortable, as long as it's not sneakers! ;)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 11:10 am 
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Shikomi-san
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wow, thank you for this!

I started collecting items to wear, then chickened out- I've just started again and im trying not to get wierded out by the amount of stuff you need!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 7:04 pm 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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Tokis-Phoenix wrote:
Thanks for the info/correcting me mojuko :] , i have a some questions though, if you are wearing zori with yukata but zori are supposed to be worn with tabi, and yukata are not supposed to be worn with tabi- what do you do? Do you skip the tabi or not with zori and yukata or do you just not wear zori with yukata at all?

I recently bought some zori/zori style sandels made out of straw and rubber from a shop over here in england which were really cheap, i want to wear them with my more everyday/townwear kimono when the kimono arive, but i dont have any tabi and i was wondering if i can skip the tabi because the zori really aern't very formal/expensive looking?


I have a pair of geta that I need to re-make because they're far too long, because they're homemade and not accurate. I can't buy any part of my kimono outfit because we can't use credit card, and ebay requires credit card. I made my own tabi, by cutting a slit in the sock and sewing it. Everything in my outfit is homemade, I'll have pictures up soon.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 8:42 pm 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

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Just a couple of additional comments on this always-interesting topic   :D

Kimono slips (kimono surippu) are actually available in two species: for both kimono and yukata. As far as I can tell, the principal difference is that yukata slips are a little shorter, and often have a sheer skirt... presumably for keeping cool! Most of us, however, can get by with one. A slip generally replaces the hadajuban/susoyoke (undershirt/wraparound slip) combination.

One advantage to the hadajuban is that when the weather is hot, you can fake the appearance of a nagajuban merely by wearing a hadajuban and attaching a han eri onto it. That way you get the appearance of "nagajuban" sleeves and a han eri, but without the additional fabric (and perspiration).

The other trick for staying cool in kimono is to wear a kimono slip plus an "easy" han eri over the top, and skip the hadajuban or nagajuban altogether. (Ichiroya calls these kantan han eri, I believe.) The "easy" han eri can be bound in place with a koshihimo; however, I always secure it further with a couple of safety pins... those tiny unsung heroes of kitsuke. (In fact, I usually use 2 or 3 more safety pins to fix the eri shin [collar stiffener] into place inside the kantan han eri.)

A couple of people have asked about datejime. I akways wear two: one to secure my nagajuban in place, and the other for the kimono. You don't have to use datejime, but I personally love them. To avoid "eri migration", I find that it's most helpful to have a datejime on the nagajuban; and a second datejime is good to wear with the kimono so that it stays in place. If you're wearing a slippery kimono fabric, such as rinzu silk, it's particularly good to pop for a silk hakata-weave datejime, like the ones that kyotocollection sells on eBay for $19. These are superb for holding fabric in place, but especially silk; and since they're breathable, they are much more comfortable to wear than the less expensive nylon datejime. (And I won't even TALK about those horrid velcro datejime; yes, they're easy to use, but do we really need to add additional discomfort to the kimono process?)

As for other accessories:

    - you can't have too many koshihimo
    - the kohlin belt is incredibly useful for keeping the front of your kimono neat
    - a sports bra can be handy for flattening the bust, and
    - talcum powder is your friend :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:16 pm 
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First Mate Onesan (moderator)
First Mate Onesan (moderator)

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If your "kantan eri" has loops in the front ties, slip the datejime through there as well  (and the back, of course) to help keep it in place. I find I don't have to use any safety pins when I dress, but the little ones would definitely come in handy sometimes, I'm sure (like on windy days to pin the skirt closed). I think it's because of how padded I am - literally a tube, so there's not as much chance for things to be shifting, so I find getting the right shape is much easier and things don't move around as much.

All I use are the velcro type, as that's what I learned with. I don't find them that uncomfortable, but maybe because I am used to them. I like how quickly and easily I can use it. I think if I am uncomfortable, it's usually due to the padding I'm wearing and not the datejime I used. Most people learning kitsuke, I belive, don't tend to wear their kimono for more than a few hours, so if all they can get is the velcro type, the level of uncomfortable-ness shouldn't be too bad.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:53 pm 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

Joined: 02 Apr 2006
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Iyolin wrote:
If your "kantan eri" has loops in the front ties, slip the datejime through there as well  (and the back, of course) to help keep it in place.


The one I bought from Ichiroya doesn't have those... which is a pity, because I think they'd be extra handy. I suppose the lesson is: if you have that option, go for it!

Quote:
All I use are the velcro type [of datejime], as that's what I learned with. I don't find them that uncomfortable, but maybe because I am used to them. I like how quickly and easily I can use it. I think if I am uncomfortable, it's usually due to the padding I'm wearing and not the datejime I used. Most people learning kitsuke, I belive, don't tend to wear their kimono for more than a few hours, so if all they can get is the velcro type, the level of uncomfortable-ness shouldn't be too bad.


Yes, perhaps most people wouldn't feel a great deal of discomfort. I tend to get hot very easily, so I avoid most synthetics when I can. (I notice a big difference in comfort between silk and nylon datejime, so it's not just the velcro...)

This morning my tea sensei gave me a kitsuke tutorial. Among other things, she made it clear that I must pad my waist with towels to get that lovely cylindrical look. (There goes the last remaining slim part of me!) So maybe I should see if it's possible to slip an ice pack in there. Ahh, bliss :lovelove

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 6:55 pm 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

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Soo many things! So little cash!  :D  :cry:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:28 pm 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

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Believe it or not, I saw young women on more than one occasion wearing sneakers with their yukata during festival time.  

With the younger generation, anything goes.  It's the older people who get antsy about the sneaker/yukata thing.


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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:12 pm 
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Shikomi-san
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Draggin up a reeeeally old thread here, but I've been searching for something I thought I once saw on the forums and I can't find it! So here I am to ask...

I am a kimono D.I.Yer as I love fiddling and would rather save my money for karinuis and obis and stuff before buyin eri-shins and kourin belts! So anyway, I was wondering what anyone made home made obi-ita from? I know cardboard is an option, but I'd kind of like to use it more than once, and I think I would really need it to be breathable! Any ideas? Plus dimensions for those who have the real thing would be useful too! ta...

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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 6:24 pm 
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Onesan
Onesan

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Fav. Maiko: Mameharu Umehisa Kyôka Fukuyû
Fav. Geiko: Kotoha, Umeha, Komomo.
Fav. Motif: Ivy/kiku leaf. Same komon. Ran
Obi-ita: 13.5 x 49cm, curved small sides, attached elastic band 3cm large.

Thismight help, too.

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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 6:40 pm 
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Geiko-san
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Kohaku-chan, if you want a breathable obi-ita, there is something called plastic canvas which is used for cross-stitch embroidery. It comes in several weights and can be purchased in craft stores and online. If you use it, you may wish to make a fabric cover for your obi-ita, because the edges might snag when you're putting it in the obi.


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:38 am 
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Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

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Ooh, I like the plastic canvas idea! I'm sure I remember using stuff like that when I was a wee girlie... I am taking notes!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:58 pm 
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Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 09 Apr 2008
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Location: san angelo, tx
i had a couple of questions that i thought would keep on topic here:

1. the card inserts that you put in juban, is that sewn in? can you use any cardboard to put it in, or in other words make it yourself?

2. han eri collars - are those sewn in as well? i'm just wondering if there was a less permanent way of attaching them.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 3:11 pm 
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First Mate Onesan (admin)
First Mate Onesan (admin)

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mo_suga, you can definitely use whatever kind of stiffener you want for the eri shin! In the fashion show, we used cardboard. If it's something you want to keep for longer, though, I'd recommend thin plastic.

Also, you can use other ways to attach han eri. I've seen people use snaps or sew-on velcro. I've used safety pins in a pinch, although the effect wasn't as smooth as I'd like. Also, you can use really large stitches to hold han eri on. Most people use a very long running stitch. By the time I finished safety-pinning my han eri on, I probably could have sewn it! ;)

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 10:16 pm 
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Shikomi-san
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Joined: 09 Apr 2008
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Location: san angelo, tx
bebemochi wrote:
mo_suga, you can definitely use whatever kind of stiffener you want for the eri shin! In the fashion show, we used cardboard. If it's something you want to keep for longer, though, I'd recommend thin plastic.

Also, you can use other ways to attach han eri. I've seen people use snaps or sew-on velcro. I've used safety pins in a pinch, although the effect wasn't as smooth as I'd like. Also, you can use really large stitches to hold han eri on. Most people use a very long running stitch. By the time I finished safety-pinning my han eri on, I probably could have sewn it! ;)


thank you so much :smil3: this is exactly what i needed to know.


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 4:57 am 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 14 Apr 2009
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Fav. Motif: Flowing water
I am trying to find a Nagajuban....
I've seen a few, but I was wondering, if they are usually only available in red or pink...??

I would rather have a blue one... or is that not in the 'rules'? ... it would be for under my Houmongi.... a picture of it is on the types of Kimono thread...

And yes I am playing with ideas to put this together.

Thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 5:42 am 
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Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

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Kira M.M. wrote:
I am trying to find a Nagajuban....
I've seen a few, but I was wondering, if they are usually only available in red or pink...??



Have you tried to find hanjuban & susoyoke instead (I don't mean the hadajuban version)? I have mint green one, it's nearer blue than pink does :)

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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 4:21 pm 
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Geiko-san
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I have a white one for my houmongi, and I have seen green on Ebay (although they are rare)

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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 4:52 pm 
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Onesan
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What about getting a white one and dying it?

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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 2:00 am 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 14 Apr 2009
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Thank you for the wonderful suggestions... I am scouring the web, eBay and such anew.
As to the colouring a white one.... it may come to that yet. :]

-- Perhaps even just using a white one till I find a blue one....?
*whispers* I really am not good with pink....


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:55 pm 
Shikomi-san
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Joined: 01 Aug 2008
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Regarding the post of mojuko, I have a question about zori. My feet are 22-22,5 cm (yes, my one foot is longer than the other :gah: they're tiny though :P ) and I always thought that I needed zori of ±23 cm, but do I actually need zori smaller than my feet? Maybe I should buy zori for children :lol: Anyway, what should my zori size be?

My tabi are 22,5 cm. That's okay, right?

And one final question: can someone show me how to use the korin belt? I've read here that it's used to keep the front/collar smooth, but I really don't know how to use it :ermum (Yes, I'm stupid, please bear with me) Does anyone have pictures or or very clear tuttorial?


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:16 pm 
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Onesan
Onesan

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Fav. Maiko: Mameharu Umehisa Kyôka Fukuyû
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About zôri: It is better in kitsuke to have a small overhang at the heel, or in other words, to have your heel hang slightly further back than the end of the zôri. This can be obtained through wearing zôri smaller than your feet, but a lot of hanao are quite tight and your foot won't get all the way to the front, so you'll have leeway in the back for the overhang. I feel more secure with the between-toes part touching my foot where the toes sprout from, but many don't bother. Too loose hanao will cause your zôri to go flak-flacking while you walk.
You're supposed to have this heel overhang to avoid "munching" the hem of the kimono at the back while walking.

I use a korin-belt on my juban. I fix the first end (the one without adjustment device) to the right side of my collar, on the last centimetres of han'eri. The elastic band goes toward the left.
I then wrap the right side of the juban around my torso, pass the korin-belt under the left side of the juban and out at the sleeve opening.
Now I can bring it around my back, outside the juban; I wrap it all around and fix the second clip to the left part of the juban, again at the end of he han'eri.
All that's left to do is to tighten the elastic with the adjusting clip. Since you fixed it to the left side of the juban (crossing toward your right,) it is outside the juban and easily accessible.

The placement at the extremities of the han'eri is the best solution I worked out for myself. You'll probably have to adjust it to your morphology. I don't have a second one for my kimono, but I assume the principle would be the same.

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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:57 am 
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Shikomi-san
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This is a REALLY nice list of things you need for kitsuke, thanks a ton for posting, but what about a list for geisha or maiko kitsuke? What are the differences?

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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:19 am 
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Maiko-san
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bornahorse wrote:
This is a REALLY nice list of things you need for kitsuke, thanks a ton for posting, but what about a list for geisha or maiko kitsuke? What are the differences?

A lot of the items required for geisha and maiko are the same as what one would need for a regular kimono, but they are worn differently. There are a couple items that aren't required for normal kitsuke that are for geisha (the large red sash worn underneath the obi being one), but for the most part you'll be looking at the exact same items, just with different ways of tying, wearing, adjusting, different rules for fabric, colors, etc. That sort of stuff.


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:35 am 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 14 Apr 2009
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I have a Nagajuban which is white at first glance, but really it's a pale blue, and the blue still very light is darker at the bottom hem. I have to admit it's a lovely one.

I also have a VERY old one, but it needs a lil TLC and sweing. It's a red and green pattern, with Botan, and Polwonia.


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:01 pm 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 01 Aug 2008
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@ Tahanala: Thanks :) I tried it a few times and I think I got it.


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:37 pm 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

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The older naga juban that I've come across are usually red or pink, there's always the exceptions to the rule however. I've come across a few that had a yellowish body that was probably dyed using saffron and the patterning on it was in orange. I also just got my hands on a naga juban with diagonal stripes in blue, white and green. It's gonna look great with my Tsukesage.

More recent naga juban are often white or pink, the good Benibana red dye can't be made anymore so the red ones are seen less and less in modern pieces. Unfortunately, the family that knew how to make the Benibana red dye died out just before WWI. The technique for making that particular dye has been lost. The dye masters in Japan are still trying to figure out how they did it and they still try to approximate that shade of red on the wedding kimonos.

Also, if you're on a budget and don't have your ties yet, 1 in wide elastic can be found at any craft store and is a good substitute until you get your hands on proper ties. It holds everything in place nicely if you're going to be active while wearing your kimono and I give it away in my booth all the time.


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:53 pm 
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Maiko-san
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Has anyone used any kind of obi-ita with a men's obi?


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:57 pm 
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Onesan
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I don't think I've ever seen an obi-ita slim enough to stay hidden under a men's obi.
However, since I seem to have an obi-ita similar to a double-width rubber datejime, maybe you could use a regular "magic' datejime as a men's obi-ita? You'd need to check the width, though.

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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:59 am 
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Maiko-san
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Tahanala wrote:
I don't think I've ever seen an obi-ita slim enough to stay hidden under a men's obi..


That's the problem. I'd also be concerned about anything else (like the plastic canvas mentioned above) slipping out. Still, it would be nice to maintain a nice smooth obi during seiza.


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 3:44 pm 
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First Mate Onesan (moderator)
First Mate Onesan (moderator)

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Some obi-ita have elastic and clips to keep them to the body; could you do that to a slim piece of plastic canvas or something to help keep it from moving?

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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 4:31 pm 
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Geiko-san
Geiko-san

Joined: 13 Apr 2006
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Location: Germany
Hakata kaku obi normally come in tube form with an open end so it would be possible to insert some cardboard


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:05 pm 
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Maiko-san
Maiko-san

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Iyolin wrote:
Some obi-ita have elastic and clips to keep them to the body; could you do that to a slim piece of plastic canvas or something to help keep it from moving?


Hmm. I'm not sure there's enough width on a typical men's obi to accommodate (and hide) that type of hardware. I've even started removing my koshihimo after tying my obi because it will often move about so it shows (of course, in general I wear my kimono and obi far more loosely than I was taught, for simple reasons of comfort. The first time I was dressed in a kimono I was strapped into it like a Victorian into a corset--I could barely walk, although I will admit everything stayed exactly in place. But the only time I wear my obi anywhere near that tight nowadays is if I'm wearing hakama,because the obi provides much of the support, and even then I don't go quite as tight).

I suppose maybe a piece of that plastic canvas attached to ties to secure it in place, and a tighter obi, might work...


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 10:08 pm 
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Maiko-san
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I found a decent alternative for number 12, the kimono clips, at the Container Store. Made to clip onto wire hangers, they come in packs of 4, and have a pretty good grip with little plastic teeth.
If there's a container store near you, you can find them in the hangers section.
They're terribly nice to have when putting on hakama or just holding your collars in place while dressing, but you'll have to add your own bell if you're the forgetful type. :wink:
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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:20 am 
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Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 22 Sep 2009
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Wow, this is very helpfull. Thanks for taking time to post this :smil3:


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:30 am 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 01 Aug 2008
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Fav. Motif: most animals, bare branches
I've been wondering...What's the difference between han eri en date eri? That han eri is sewn on the juban and date eri not?


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:20 pm 
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Geiko-san
Geiko-san

Joined: 13 Apr 2006
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Location: Germany
These are two differt types of decorative eri.

Haneri:
it is sewn on the juban and so replacing the normally white juban collar. You do this to add colour or design to your outfit or to have a piece of fabric that can be easily taken of to be washed.
It is visible arround your neck.


Dateeri:
this is a decorative extar eri. It is normally fixed with some clips to the inside of your kimono collar. It is visible around your neckline and goes down with the kimono collar to the obi. You can wear haneri and dateeri together.
The dateeri simulates wearing differnt layers of kimono.


Here is a nice example with an embroided haneri and a double layer of pink and green dateeri:

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http://kimonoasobi.seesaa.net/article/33618953.html


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 Post subject: Re: [Knowledge] - Kitsuke Item/Accessory List (Photo heavy)
PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:54 pm 
Shikomi-san
Shikomi-san

Joined: 01 Aug 2008
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Fav. Motif: most animals, bare branches
Thanks! Your explanation and picture make it very clear :)


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