Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

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Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:36 pm

Takenoko

Now I've finally found my main fabrics, I'm hoping to make a Nara era woman's costume, like this -
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My image & information resources so far include the excellent Kyoto Shoin book "Shosoin Textiles" (great colour pics & closeups of 8th century fabrics from the Shosoin Imperial Repository at Nara), the Heibonsha survey on Japanese textiles & kimono (good on early stuff) and a neat book about women's costumes http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/4879 ... oh_product from the Jidai Matsuri (the photo above is from that book).

I've got a bit stuck on some of the construction details - simply trying to work out how things go together. For example, I'm not sure if the skirt is made in a similar way to a modern hakama (although this side view suggests otherwise). Perhaps it just wraps around? Is that the edge of a wraparound skirt at the centre back?

Image Image

I'm also confused about the neckline & construction of the tunic, as these pictures suggest a round neckline and tabbard-like construction, with two "streamers" or lappets on the front, whereas mboogiedown's blog http://mboogiedown-japan.blogspot.com/2 ... tsuri.html shows a V- neckline, more like a modern kimono neckline but without the collar band (second photo).

If anyone can point me in the direction of an good online sources, or has seen the Jidai Matsuri, or one of these ensembles in a museum and can give me any info, I'd be grateful! I've searched the web (in English & Japanese) and found very little (most costume resources are totally in love with the Heian era) and had a good look around here - Fuyou's pictures of the Jidai Matsuri are great, btw. I also looked around kugepoet's wodeforde hall/SCA website, checking out her links, but they are all Heian or later.

The fabrics I'm using are - for the tunic, a jinken nagoya obi -
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For the skirt, a tsumugi kimono with suitable ikat design, that looks more Silk Road/central Asian than strictly Japanese, as do most of the textiles of this era -
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I'm hoping to salvage some of the hakkake for either the wrapover long sleeved top or else will have to find another fabric (maybe a shibori or roketsuzome batik) -
Image

I thought I'd worked out how to make the longsleeved top, from a picture in the Shosoin textiles book, but when I googled "hampi" I found out it was a man's undershirt, not a woman's top shirt!

Any help would be most appreciated. This is just something I've wanted to make for a while, purely for fun (though I might wear it to the solstice party this year).

I'll post pics once I've got it done!

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Re: Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:39 pm

Iyolin

I wish I had my copy of Jidai Isshou no Nuikata with me. I don't know if it has Nara period or not in it. Unfortunately, it's packed in a box in another city and I won't get to it until Christmas. I might be able to ask my fiance to look and see if he can find the book and go thru it as he unpacks (he just moved us to a bigger city [I'm away at grad school and couldn't help him move]). I have a feeling it's mostly Heian and later, though.

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Re: Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:39 pm

SuperGrouper

Consult with someone else to confirm it, but since that type of clothing is so heavily based upon Chinese hanfu, the construction might be the same- and Chinese people still produce hanfu, even though they aren't often worn (Ebay is full of them, at great prices if no one else bids.)

Perhaps someone else will know more. ^^; It's just an idea.

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Re: Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:40 pm

Takenoko

Thanks for those suggestions!

Iyolin, I immediately went to Amazon.jp - Jidai Issha no Nuikata? http://www.amazon.co.jp/時代衣裳の縫い方-改訂―復元品 ... 108&sr=8-1 It looks fantastic.

I looked through the "search inside" feature but the contents page is frustratingly tiny and hard to read. First caption is azuma (Eastern Japan if I'm reading it right) but I don't quite know what they mean by azuma as a style. Next main heading is junihitoe, so maybe it doesn't go as far back as I would hope. I ought to add that book to my wishlist, as it looks like a very good addition to my library! When you get a chance to look at it again, can you tell me what's in it? The kanji for the individual patterns are just too tiny to read.

SuperGrouper, that's a good point - I'll check out the topics and links on hanfu. There is an earlier hanfu topic which contained a pattern link, as I remember bookmarking it on my old computer. I don't know enought about hanfu to know whether it evolved after the Han dynasty, Han Court dress being the basis of the Nara style (one of the big differences apparently is that the low wide necklines of the Han costume were considered immodest at the Japanese Court, hence the Nara version covering up women much more!) Nevertheless, it may give me some useful ideas and pattern sizes.

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Re: Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Wed Jun 22, 2016 10:06 pm

Iyolin

Oh, YAY! I couldn't tell from the cover if it had it or not, and I honestly couldn't remember. You'd probably love the book and find it far more helpful; I haven't made anything from it yet!

My fiance has set up the computer and scanner and things, so I can ask him to keep an eye out for it when unpacking, and scan those pages when he has time, as I imagine you'd need it before Christmas, correct?

Looking at images of the outfit, it reminds me of Korean hanbok. I can kind of see how the style went across Asia. Makes me want an outfit now, just to pose like the last picture (women sitting in poofy skirts always makes me want one).

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Re: Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Wed Jun 22, 2016 10:06 pm

Takenoko

Iyolin, even more success - I harvested the photo from the first page link I gave and, while I couldn't get the photo any larger than a thumbnail on the webpage, once I'd opened it on my pc, it was large enough to read - both parts - yay! The pattern page is probably the most useful -
Image
Now I've seen the skirt laid out in the blog photos, I think I'll be able to make it - the blog even mentioned 120 pleats... I might omit the tuck/extra gather feature, as I don't think I'll have enough fabric to do that. It is just like a hanbok skirt and I am guessing it wraps almost twice around - in proportion to the length of the skirt, that looks about right in the two white skirt photos. Given the Korean influence on Japan around that time, it probably isn't surprising if there are similarities, although I don't know the history of the hanbok well enough to know.

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Re: Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Wed Jun 22, 2016 10:08 pm

Takenoko

Iyolin, even more success - I harvested the photo from the first page link I gave and, while I couldn't get the photo any larger than a thumbnail on the webpage, once I'd opened it on my pc, it was large enough to read - both parts - yay! The pattern page is probably the most useful -
Image
Now I've seen the skirt laid out in the blog photos, I think I'll be able to make it - the blog even mentioned 120 pleats... I might omit the tuck/extra gather feature, as I don't think I'll have enough fabric to do that. It is just like a hanbok skirt and I am guessing it wraps almost twice around - in proportion to the length of the skirt, that looks about right in the two white skirt photos. Given the Korean influence on Japan around that time, it probably isn't surprising if there are similarities, although I don't know the history of the hanbok well enough to know.

:lol:

Unfortunately, when I know I should be devoting 100% of my time to something else, I just have to have a treat on the back burner!

Finding the right fabric with the Ichiroya obi was the starting point for this though. I'd been wanting to make it for a while (having the slightly mad idea that it would be great, ultimately, to be able to do a talk on "Japanese clothing thru the ages", where I could dress up the audience - I could make ensembles that would fit modern British women rather than, say, 1930s Japanese women, which would make dressing members of the audience a bit easier). It was initially a bit frustrating that, having found the tunic fabric, the online store that had something suitable for the skirt only had 1 metre left... (I was planning to use a (washable) Kaffe Fassett cotton ikat with a blurry effect), so I had to find something else.

This time of year I start thinking about what I'm going to make for our friends' big Solstice party too, so if I could get this moving in time, it would make a fun outfit for that party - I could add a bit of sparkle with a long scarf, rather than the historically accurate shawl in the photos... I wore kimono to that party a couple of years ago, remaking a sparkly omeshi hitoe and wearing it in a non-trad style with a maiko-type susoyoke improvised from patchwork fabric, and last year I made a salwar kameez from a crushed velvet (with sequins) I bought in the wonderful Birmingham (UK) "rag market". Since part of the evening's entertainment involves dancing around the bonfire in the chicken yard, I always end up wearing boots and having to clean whatever I'm wearing up to knee level (mud!) but it is fun. Over the years, everyone expects me to come up with something new and interesting...

Bizzarely, Nara era court dress looks a lot easier to wear for driving than kimono too!

When does your grad school finish? There'll be time for other projects then.

EDIT - Oops, Ryu had another sale... It was the perfect excuse to go for this haori bolt (silk), which looks very similar to some of the Shosoin textiles (karabana-esque, royketsu ? dyed), for the hippari-like shirt -
Image
Image

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Re: Nara era women's costume - any recommended links?

Post by IG Team » Wed Jun 22, 2016 10:08 pm

Akamatsu_Ayako

From what I saw, I think the Nara Era costumes are quite similar to the Korean Hanbok, especially the "skirt" part.

I suggest you try looking for Hanbok patterns (which are awfully easy and simple!) and practice making the skirts.

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