:eng Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco & Modernism In Japan

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shira
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:eng Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco & Modernism In Japan

Post by shira » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:03 am

NAME: yukatafan


Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco And Modernism In Japan
Edited By Annie Van Assche
ISBN-10: 8874392710
ISBN-13: 978-8874392711
English, Published in 2005 by 5 Continents

Amazon.com (USA) link

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Review
This massive & heavy (7 pounds) paperback (list price of $70, regularly available on Amazon USA for ~$48 new, I found an eBay seller who shipped me a new shrinkwrapped copy for $24!) serves as a catalog of the 150 vintage kimono, haori & nagajuban (and a few obi) from women, men and children from the collection of Jeffrey Montgomery curated by the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and sent on a road tour of various museums in the USA in 2005 & 2006.

The book itself is very heavy on the eye candy with very large and copious (more than 180) images of the items from the collection. It's some of the best kimono photography I've ever seen and plenty of items have multiple images showing the fine details of these predominantly Taisho & Showa era items. The section on men's items especially benefits from this treatment as apparently their juban and haori and kimono linings from these eras were the spectacularly decorated parts of their clothing while the exteriors of haori & kimono were very plain. But the children's and women's items are quite varied and bold and fascinating and are even better appreciated thanks to the superlative photography.

There are 5 essays in this catalog

"Interweavings: Kimono Past And Present" by this book's editor art historian Annie Van Assche is a nice succinct history of kimono and various kimono-making techniques which pays special attention to the Meiji period's Westernization of Japanese culture and how it lead to Taisho & Showa kimono design developments

"Dynamic Lines And Syncopated Rhythms: Art Nouveau And Art Deco Designs In Early Twentieth Century Kimono" by the Victoria & Albert Museum's Deputy Keeper of Asian Department's Anna Jackson focuses on how Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Japanese design all came together to influence both Western and Japanese dress but of course her focus here is on kimono.

"Atarashii Onna: The New Japanese Woman" by Elise Tipton, Associate Professor of Japanese & Korean Studies at University of Sydney Australia chronicles a brief social history of the Japanese ideal of the 'new woman' or atarashii onna how she was born during the early part of the 20th century and her successor the 'modern girl' or modan garu and gives you a taste of how Japanese women's lives changed at the dawn of a new industrial consumerist century.

"Kimono Memories: Personal Notes" by art historian, textile maker and textile curator the Hawaiian Keiko Brandon gives her personal insights into what makes kimono, especially kimono of this era meaningful to her and perhaps to other Japanese.

"The Kimono And Parisian Mode" by Akiko Fukai, Chief Curator & Director of the Kyoto Costume Institute provides a little perspective on how 'Japonism' influenced the design movements of Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Western fashion especially early 20th century Parisian designers.

My only nitpick of this book is the profuse use of bright Barbie fuschia pink and small font light san-serif typeface as it's unifying design element...the type is hard for older eyes to read and the shocking pink color in my opinion detracts from the beauty and appreciation of the kimono. There are other Deco vintage color schemes that could have been used and bigger type for the (albeit brief) essays would enhance their readability. But this is a nitpick and at $24 this book is a very good visual reference especially for fans of Taisho & Showa kimono.

Recommended for:
-Those who like art deco period items and bold graphical design
-Those who want to see fine examples of Taisho & Showa kimono (including a few pieces for children and men and yess there are a few Meiji pieces in the mix for comparison)
-Those interested in the marriage of Western & Japanese design elements in kimono (and to a much lesser extent in early 20th century Parisian fashion)
-Those who want to see what non-geisha & maiko-specific kimono fashion between 1910-1960 looked like
-Those who are interested in learning about museum exhibitions of kimono

Not recommended for:
-Those who want to learn kitsuke
-Those who are looking for sewing/crafting information
-Those who prefer pre-Westernization strictly traditional Japanese kimono designs
-Those who are interested in kimono made before 1910 or kimono made after the 1950s
-Those who are not interested in Taisho & Showa era kimono fashion (only one Edo piece in here and a few transitional Meiji era garments)
-Those looking for an in-depth history of kimono
-Those looking for an in-depth discussion of kimono dyeing, painting, weaving or embroidering techniques
-Those looking for lots of information or photos of geisha, maiko and their specific kimono & kitsuke

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Re: :eng Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco & Modernism In Japan

Post by ainokimono » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:03 am

Wow~ great review, thanks! I lovelovelove the designs from this period and as most of the really nice ones I've found are too small and too expensive, it's nice to able to have them at hand in book form. I've been eyeing this one but the cost of shipping has held me back. After reading the review, though, I think I'll just ship it to my parents and pick it up next time I visit :D (The wait is going to be rough tho LOL)

shira
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Re: :eng Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco & Modernism In Japan

Post by shira » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:04 am

NAME: yukatafan


@ainokimono There's a seller on eBay (bstosch) who has multiple copies of this book listed for $39.99 with free shipping. There's also a Make Offer option on the auction.

I offered $20, he countered with $24 because of the free shipping thing (which I guess is making life even harder for small eBay sellers to make any money, eBay urging sellers to offer free shipping). So if you want one here's the auction link.

Just have it shipped to your US address and you should be good.

Since I'm a 2 hour drive away from the seller (who knew?) I had the book like overnight even though it looks like it shipped by media mail. He packed my copy really well too (a very sturdy box)

I need to get my computer's new printer/copier/scanner/fax machine plugged in and running and try to get some pics for the review.

shira
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Re: :eng Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco & Modernism In Japan

Post by shira » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:04 am

NAME: rubyminky


Thanks for the great review of this book.
There isn't much about it on Amazon.co.uk, so I've been wary of buying, but I'll definitely have to get a copy after reading your article.

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