[Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post Reply
User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

[Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:28 am

claw789
Season of dress and materials - Kimono/Obi/Komono year chart

Image
Translated from Utsukushiikimono.

I finally got off my lazy bum and finished translating, and I owe it all to sumire's thread on usumono (ro, sha, ra, hemp, linen, raw fibers, etc.).

This Utsukushii Kimono chart is slightly different from online sources like Beauty of Kimono and pretty different from Dalby's seasonal chart, Figure 6.33 on pg. 210 of Kimono: Fashioning Culture. As always, kitsuke rules are really more like guidelines. You are free to make up your own mind, but it's always good to know what the 'rules' are before you break it. (See askerry's research on non-Japanese climate and kimono-wearing from the "Can I wear ro yet?" thread: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=288 )

A few notes:
1. The Oct-May Han-eri material is blank because the magazine seems to think that Shiose (a kind of habutae silk) is strictly correct. And it is for formal occasions (weddings, funerals, and such) - because it's a material that is not open weave. I'd like to ask a couple of people about it before I fill it in.
2. The Oct-May Naga-juban material is listed as Rinzu and Kinchi (楊柳). Looking it up in several dictionaries hasn't helped, so I'm going to ask about this too. Don't know why they didn't just say 'awase' (maybe awase juban are antique?).

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:29 am

Auberginefleur

I have more charts on my blog at

Kimono Seasons--What to wear when


Kimono Seasons II

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:30 am

Ems

This is kind of silly, but I don't have a lot of experience with textiles... Could someone please explain the difference between ro/sha/awase/rinzu/chirimen/etc.? :oops: From what I've seen on ebay, ro has small holes in it to allow the garment to breathe better, but other than that I'm completely clueless.

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:30 am

Tahanala

In ro, the holes are organised in lines, because of the way it is woven. The lines are always horizontal; it is called tate-ro if they are vertical. (I know it exists, but never saw any.)

Sha has holes too, but they aren't organised into lines. they are either all over the garment, or make patterns.

Awase means "lined", and can describe any kind of garment. Of course, you aren't very likely to find awase ro, since their purposes are opposite.

Rinzu is a weaving technique that produces damask effect and shows patterns in shiny/non-shiny contrast.

Chirimen is another weaving technique in which the threads are twisted, and it produces a slightly textured wriggly effect.

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:31 am

Onnagata

There are no hitoe nagajuban nor hitoe haori nor hitoe obi in this chart. I am wondering why.

I am also wondering if there are rules for matching different types.
As far as I know it's ok to wear hitoe nagajuban with awase kimono, or hitoe-obi (such as hanhaba obi used with yukata) with informal awase kimono. Is it correct or just for casual, non-strict-kitsuke wear? I have only seen so on photos, I have never read anything explicit about it.
Would it be ok to wear a hitoe kimono with awase obi?
Or a hitoe juban with ro/sha kimono?
Any ideas/knowledge? :?

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:31 am

Auberginefleur
onnagata wrote:There are no hitoe nagajuban nor hitoe haori nor hitoe obi in this chart. I am wondering why.


Ro, sha, and hemp are by definition hitoe. With the exception that sha materials are often lined. Sha obi's usually have some kind of backing, and there is such as thing as an "awase sha" kimono that has a juban-like matching lining sewn in to have a faint pattern appearing through the transparent sha fabric. These "awase sha" kimono are worn in June and September.
onnagata wrote:I am also wondering if there are rules for matching different types. As far as I know it's ok to wear hitoe nagajuban with awase kimono,...


One of the ways of copiing with the need to wear an awase kimono in spring for formal events when it is impratically hot, is to wear a cotton or hemp hitoe Nagajuban. I have seen this done, have done it myself, and have been recommended to do so by my tea sensei, but I believe that technically it is not proper.
onnagata wrote:..., or hitoe-obi (such as hanhaba obi used with yukata) with informal awase kimono. Is it correct or just for casual, non-strict-kitsuke wear? I have only seen so on photos, I have never read anything explicit about it.
Would it be ok to wear a hitoe kimono with awase obi?
Or a hitoe juban with ro/sha kimono?
Any ideas/knowledge? :?
I would imagine that for formal events, an awase obi must be matched with an awase kimono, but I do wear hitoe obi's with informal awase kimono for casual events. I am not sure how acceptable this is, but as long as it is not a formal event and I am not being rude to anyone by my choice of kitsuke, I don't see why it would matter.

Would it be ok to wear a hitoe kimono with awase obi?

I would imagine the same reasoning would apply as above (OK for informal kitsuke), but it strikes me that while it may be OK with a plain-weave silk hitoe (which I do myself early in the spring hitoe season), with a ro, sha, or hemp kimono, it would look hot and uncomfortable to those around you.

Any other thoughts, or input from others?

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:32 am

Bebemochi

I think this is a situation where rules and reality collide.

As far as I know, there is a distinct set of rules regarding seasonality in kimono, obi, and juban. There are appropriate times of the year to phase from awase into hitoe, for example, in which case there would be times of year when you would be wearing a hitoe juban and a hitoe kimono with an awase obi (assuming that the juban and kimono change weight first...but don't assume that, because I don't actually know.) These phases include obiage and obijime, as well. So, if you are a very well-educated and well-stocked kimono wearer, you can follow these rules and be utterly correct.

The reality of the situation is that while many people may be well-educated, not so many people are well-stocked anymore. I've seen a lady wearing a ro kimono with a hitoe juban, ro haori, and heavy awase obi decorated with metallic threads. She did look hot (as in temperature, although I can assure you she was a lovely lady as well. ;) )I can only assume she was doing the best she could. Her ro kimono was a gorgeous houmongi. It's probable that her other obi, assuming she owned any other obi, would have done it a disservice by lacking formality. She made a choice and I don't think it was a bad one.

I don't think you're going to get beaten about the head and shoulders by kitsuke enthusiasts if you dare to wear a hitoe kimono with an awase obi. I would just think carefully about your choice. Is your awase obi rather light and thin, so it doesn't impart the feelings of heat and weight? Is your hitoe kimono a rather heavy silk, so actually you can wear it in much cooler times of year than you would normally wear a hitoe? You should try to take a step back and see if the outfit makes sense, as far as weight goes.

(Speaking of the actual rules and phasing in and out of outfits, I seem to suddenly remember a chart in one of my kimono books that was a calender wheel. I know it had juban listed on it, but maybe it had other things, too. I'll try to dig it up later.)

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:32 am

onnagata

Thank you for your experiences and opinions!

By hitoe, I meant unlined kimono made of "the same" fabric as awase kimono.
Sha/ro/hemp are not called hitoe as far as I know but usumono.
I was asking, because I actually have a nice hitoe with a matching awase obi (in terms of color).
I would not wear a usumono kimono with awase obi.
But as bebemoch has mentioned, there are always comprehensible exceptions.

I was also wondering about wool kimono. They seem to be meant to be worn in winter, but they are hitoe as well. What informal obi would be appropriate? Awase silk obi, wool hitoe obi? And what kind of juban? Awase or hitoe? I hardly have seen wool juban, most of them were men's.

And I remembered there were also "real" winter kimono with cotton between the outer fabric and the lining (wata-iri), but I only have seen antique ones, so I guess they are not used anymore :?
But were there any special rules about them?

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:32 am

onnagata

I have a question about hitoe juban. I'm still rather confused about this stuff in general.

I have an unlined juban with lined sleeves. On ebay (generally) I have seen unlined juban with lined sleeves (as far as it was visible), and I'd say they aren't unusual.
I first thought this was common, because it looks nicer, especially when wearing furisode where you can peek into the sleeves.
However there are "real" hitoe juban (not ro/sha) with unlined sleeves, too.

Now I'm wondering if I can wear hitoe juban with lined sleeves with hitoe kimono? :?
Or would this look too odd?

I rather think those kind of hitoe juban were meant to be worn for warmer weather during awase time, but I'm not sure.

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:33 am

buyoka
onnagata wrote:I hardly have seen wool juban, most of them were men's.
I have a wool women's nagajuban -- and it's not the first I've seen. Unfortunately, I'm totally allergic to wool!

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:34 am

Carol

So it's also okay to wear a shibori obiage&awase obijime with ro kimono&ro obi?

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:34 am

Claw789

According to the chart, it's acceptable to wear awase obijime all year round. The main message seems to be don't wear open weave obijime when it's not hot.

Shibori is a decorative pattern, not a material or weave, which is outside the scope of this particular chart. This would be a gray area if you had, for example: a summery water-patterned shibori rinzu obiage where the motif is appropriate even though the material is less so.

These are just guidelines. Don't stress if you don't match 100%.

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:35 am

Koko

Can you wear a hitoe/ro/sha formal/semiformal kimono with a regular fukuro obi, or should it be a ro/sha obi as well?

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:35 am

Kokoro

Hi Koko :)

Hitoe means unlined and ro/sha are weaves.
Ro and sha Kimono are not lined (sometimes you find a partial lining which is a matter of formality and protecting the fragile fabric).
If you are going to use one of this fabrics you will need to have a fitting and matching yuban because of the see-through effect of the fabric.
A ro/sha obi would also be great.

There are many threads about kimono to wear at a wedding in this forum (what to wear, why it is sometimes better not to wear kimono etc.) and some great information about summer outfits like this one [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Hope this helps a little :)

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:36 am

Bebemochi

Technically? There's a progression of fabric weight.

In reality, people wear what they have. I once saw a very well-dressed lady attending a kabuki play in a ro kimono, awase fukuro obi, shibori obiage, open-weave obijime, and a ro haori.

It all depends on how correct you want to be.

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:37 am

U no Hana

If you are starting from zero to purchase all the items you need for a summer formal outfit (for the weddings) I think it's better to have it correct. But if you already have kimono items and you don't want to spend more money, then, wear what you have.
I would like to point something: if you look at the seasonal chart bebemochi has posted, you will see ro/sha obi can be worn from middle May till September. You said the weddings you attend are mainly in summer, so it seems buying one of them is worth the money :)

User avatar
Hikari
Moderating Team
Moderating Team
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2016 3:51 am
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Contact:

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by Hikari » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:37 am

kiiro

I know this thread is old, but i do have a burning question (also I am new to IG). Back when I knew little (nothing) about kimono i bought two cute awase komon on ebay.

Problem is, I live in a country 10 degrees North of the equator in the Caribbean :twitch: Is that total blasphemy? I mean the only seasons we have here besides summer is rainy and dry :bunbun:

so, kitsuke wise all I have is an awase komon, awase nagoya obi, ro obiage and ro juban. (I'm now starting off). Luckily since I live here I pretty much don't feel the heat unless I dare to give myself cancer by standing directly in the sun. So when i put on everything I feel rather cool...and when I do get hot the towels I use to pad myself would save the day i hope. (haven't worn kimono anywhere public yet)

So if you guys were to see me trotting down the street what would you think? (be honest...maybe not brutal k? :oops: )...and is it total mad-man babble to wear awase here?

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:38 am

utsusemi

Welcome to IG :]
The rules were made according to japanese seasons. It has been discussed here how to adapt this to parts of the world in which those seasons are different. For example in Australia it is summer now. Someone who lives in an area like yours was very happy to wear yukata all year round, as there are so many beautiful ones. If you feel comfortable with an awase then I think that is fine. Awase are worn with underwear / juban. You can use an easy collar to fake the look.

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:38 am

rubyminky

I don't think it matters too much.

If in doubt, and you did feel that you were overheating, you could always try removing the lining to make them hitoe (assuming the motifs aren't very autumn-winter).

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:38 am

kiiro

rubyminky Thanks for the advice! I've thought of removing the lining but I have no clue how to go about doing it :ohno: . Will I be able to remove the lining without having to undo the nagagi's seams?

Right now i have two and the motifs are kiku/ random 5 petal flowers + background outlines of leaves (pink komon), and a very fine boxy geometric pattern shiny whitish kimono and the lines of the box thingies are green...but from far it just looks shiny white ( its a komon too right?). So i think they are okay with the "seasons" here but i'm not 100% positive.

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:39 am

spiritofthewinds

I'm also sorry to "revive" this post, but it is a question that is directly related to this topic.

Usumono (least warm, middle of summer) :
- Ro : holes are organised in lines
- Sha : holes not organised in lines but rather randomly or in patterns

Awase : Lined (more warm, winter)

Hitoe : Unlined (less warm, early/late summer)

However, I still don't really understand the difference between hitoe and usumono. Most kimonos are classed by hitoe/awase. Are usumono a "lighter" type of hitoe?

How can we distinguish usumono from hitoe?

Thanks!

User avatar
IG Team
Administration Team
Administration Team
Posts: 3290
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:53 pm

Re: [Knowledge] Awase/Hitoe/Usumono Year Chart

Post by IG Team » Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:39 am

Gikuyu

No Hitoe is basically just like awase (fabric wise) minus the linings so its simply just unlined :)

Usumono are summer fabrics,, quite sheer aswell especially sha :) Hitoe is still opaque compared to usumono

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest