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    book reviews

Little Songs of the Geisha - Traditional Japanese Ko-Uta
by Liza Crihfield Dalby


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Miscellaneous faq:

Whilst I enjoy and look forward to receiving emails from my readers, I am quite often inundated with many emails asking me the same questions over and over again. As much as I would love to be able to answer each and every mail individually, I am unable to. So as a result, I shall try to address the most frequently asked questions here.

Please do read through the below list to make sure that your questions have not already been answered. If all else fails, and your question has not been answered, please feel free to contact me.

Can I become a geisha? / How do I become a geisha?

To be completely honest and frank, there really is 0% chance of becoming a geisha if you are not of Japanese desent or extremely skilled in various arts of the geisha (and even then I highly doubt it will be the case).

"But Liza Dalby became a geisha!"

Yes, that is true. But one has to remember that:-

a) Liza was doing an anthropological study into the geisha culture and their lifestyles; and

b) Liza did not go there with the purpose of becoming a geisha, nor did she ask to become a geisha. It was the geisha themselves that suggested to her that to further her studies, she should become a geisha.

Do not let this get you down though! Just because you cannot become a geisha does not mean that you cannot study and learn some of the arts that geisha are skilled in. Have a look in your local telephone directory, speak with your local Japanese club or check on the internet for Japanese dance classes, tea ceremony classes, music classes etc around your area.

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Are you able to put me in touch with a geisha house?

Unfortunately, I am afraid that I am unable to do this.

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Are you able to put me in touch with a geisha or maiko?

Unfortunately, once again, I am unable to do this.

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Do you know of any teahouses around my area?

No I don't. I would suggest taking a look in your local telephone directory, speak with your local Japanese club or check online to see if you can locate any around your area.

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Where can I buy real geisha make-up?

We are all in luck! Hannari-Ya.com sells a full line of the geisha make-up direct from Kyoto. You can buy it as a full kit, or, individual pieces. He also sells other cosmetics inspired by the geisha and maiko of Kyoto that are perfect for everyday use.

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What else can I use for geisha make-up instead?

To achieve the perfect, flawless make-up, I strongly recommend using the real geisha make-up. However, if you are in a fix and need to improvise - there are a few modern cosmetics that can be used to replicate to a certain extent the look and feel of traditional geisha make-up.

White Face Paint / Liquid Foundation / Powder:-
There are a couple of options here. I personally found the best product to use in relation to this was made by a company called Manic Panic. I used their white "Dreamtone" liquid foundation and their "Virgin" white face powder to achieve a pretty good effect. They also have a thicker white foundation called "Goth White" which can also be used. This brand of make-up can be found in "gothic" or "alternative" shops around your local area, or contact them online through their web site for order information.

If you are in the United States, check out your local "Hot Topics" store for their make-up section. They have a few varieties of white foundation and powders that can be used for this purpose as well.

If you are unable to locate either of these, you could try to achieve the same effect with white clown make-up or theatrical make-up, which I am sure you can find at a local costume or theatre shop. The only problem with this is that this particular type of make-up tends to be quite oily and is hard to achieve the matte white look.

Red Eye Shadow:-
Most major cosmetic brands these days do sell red eye shadow. The two brands that I have used that I felt were the best was the "Rocket Red" or the "Vampire Red" colours from Manic Panic and the "rust" colour from the Australian brand, "Napoleon". You should go down to your local major department store and check out the cosmetics counter, as you might be able to find some other vivid red colours that are suitable to use.

If you are unable to get a hold of red eye shadow, why not try using a lip colour pencil like an eyeliner, or even some lipstick? I have experimented with lip colour pencil before, and it can give a very nice effect. With the lipstick, you could use a lip brush, or cotton bud / q-tip) and apply some on-to your eyelids, and then blend it in to get the desired effect. To make it matte, rather than shiny, you can then pat over the top of it some translucent powder.

Eye Liner:-
The best eye liner to use for this is black liquid eye liner. Most major cosmetic brands will have some form of this. The only problem with using liquid eye liner is that it does require a bit of practice in applying before you can get it to look right. If you are having trouble applying it, try using a sharp black pencil eye liner as a guide, then paint the liquid eye liner over the top.

Eyelashes:-
Japanese women traditionally have dark eyelashes, and were in no real need to use any form of mascara. That is not to say though, that you cannot wear any yourself. If you have light coloured hair, black mascara would help with darkening your eyelashes so that the make-up looks correct.

Eyebrows:-
Whilst you can use a mixture of black eye shadow and a black eye liner pencil to fill your eyebrows in, the BEST way to do it, and the nicest way, is to simply use a stick of medium/soft black charcoal. This should be available at any art supply store.

Lipstick:-
Most major cosmetic brands should sell a red lipstick that is of suitable colour to use. A matte lipstick would be the better choice over glossy lipsticks. If you do want a touch of a shine on the lipstick, I would recommend using the matte lipstick and applying a very thin layer of clear lip gloss over the top - just enough to give it a slight shine.

If you are having trouble locating the correct red colour to use in lipsticks, why not take a look at lip liner pencils? One of the best colours that I ever used was by an Australian brand called "Poppy", who did a line of "geisha-type" make-up. Unfortunately though, since moving to the United States, I have discovered that "Poppy" brand make-up has ceased to exist. If you hunt around - you will be sure to find a similiar colour lip liner pencil to use.

Blush:-
Geisha themselves have almost plain white faces with just the hint of cherry blossom pink for contouring while maiko have a darker application of the soft pink blush around their eye and cheek area. If you are wanting to do maiko style make-up, you could probably use a nice subtle pink blush, which should be available in most cosmetic brands. If you managed to be able to obtain the red eye shadow, you can do one of two things. Either mix a bit of the red eye shadow with the white face powder, and apply to the face or, apply the red eye shadow softly to the face, and pat over the top with white powder until the desired colour is reached.

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How do I do geisha and/or maiko style make-up?

Please refer to the below diagrams for basic templates for maiko and geisha style make-up.


Junior maiko
• faces painted white leaving bare skin around hairline
• cheek/eye areas a noticeable cherry blossom pink
• eyes outlined in deep crimson and black
• eyebrows defined with red/pink under the black
• noticeable element - small proportion of her lower lip is painted in crimson.



Senior maiko
 •faces painted white leaving bare skin around hairline
• cheek/eye areas a subtle cherry blossom pink
• eyes outlined in deep crimson and black
• eyebrows defined with red/pink under the black
 • lips partually painted in crimson.

Junior Geisha/Performance Geisha
• faces painted white with the most subtle hint of pink for contouring
• subtle outlining of crimson and black around eyes
• eyebrows faintly defined with red/pink under the black
• lips painted almost in full with crimson.

Senior Geisha
•subdued make-up of choice - generally of a natural colour or base.

Please keep in mind, as evident by the above illustrations, that the make-up of a maiko and geisha becomes much more subtle as she ages. Geisha of all ages will still wear the white and crimson make-up for performances though.

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Where can I buy Kimono and accessories?

There are quite a few online places where you can buy kimono and accessories. The below links have been recommended to me by various people.

- www.ebay.com
- www.asahi-jc.com
- www.risingsunimports.com
- www.ichiroya.com
- www.kyotokimono.com
- www.yokodana.com

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Is it possible to make my own Kimono?

Yes you can! If you know how to sew a straight line, you should be able to sew a kimono! Traditional kimono patterns are very straight forward and relatively easy to create. If you know how to draft your own patterns, you can use this following template:-

Imperial Measurements
(feet and inches)
Metric Measurements
(metres and centimetres)

If you are unable to draft your own patterns, check out your local fabric store for Butterick pattern no:- 6698 (Japanese Kimono), or you can order it from their web site:-

Butterick pattern no:- 6698 (Japanese Kimono)

You can also find that same pattern for auction on www.ebay.com every now and then as well. Just keep in mind though that the pattern is not as authentic as the traditional pattern above.

As for fabric, you could use "oriental" style fabric from your local fabric shop, but if you are looking for a much more authentic style, you could always purchase actual kimono fabric. Some places where you can purchase kimono fabric:-

- www.ichiroya.com
- www.mimuclub.com
- www.ebay.com
- www.yokodana.com
- www.kyotokimono.com

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Where can I buy a geisha wig (katsura) from?

Brand new katsura can cost thousands of dollars and I am yet to locate any place online that sells brand new katsura.

Occasionally though, you can find second hand katsura. The best places to look are:-

- www.ebay.com
- www.yokodana.com

If you are currently in Japan, or taking a trip to Japan, be sure to check out all the antique, "junk" and second hand stores as you might be able to find some decently priced katsura. If you are in the USA, be sure to check out some large antique stores around your area. A lot of WWII service men brought many souvenirs back from Japan after the war, and you never know what you might find.

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Is it possible to make my own Katsura?

Been there, done that, and never want to do it again!

You can create your own katsura, but I would not recommend it unless you have a lot of time, patience and un-frazzled nerves. Check back here in the future, as I shall recount my experiences in making a "shimada mage" style from a cheap costume wig, and, will hopefully have some basic diagrams for you to follow.

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